Branchin Out

I have been experimenting with oil finishes and the following is what works best for me.

I have been using a mix of 1/2 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 tungu oil and 1/3 varathane.  I have been soaking the piece and then wiping it completely off after a few minutes.  I then wait 1/2 hour or so and then wipe off again to take care of any bleeding.  I repeat this 3 or 4 times depending on the finish I want and the type of wood. 24 hours between applications is a good idea.

I also have experimented with using General Salad Finish as the last coat and it seems to work great.

Buffing with tripoi and the white powder between coats or using 0000 steel wool is also a good must idea.

I once talked to a guy who buffs his work before he adds any finish.  Real good idea.

Sanding to 400 is also very important.

Hope this is some help.  I sure wish I knew this when I started turning.

Rich

Tags: Oil finishes

Been away in Hawaii for a week and was able to find soome interesting wood. More next week when I get home.
Big show next weekend. Will post on Monday.

Tags: Dates, Wood

12″ tall / 2 1/4″ wide

These pieces of Kauri came from New Zealand via a fellow turner.  This wood is over 20,000 years old
Thanks  -  Georges

Tags: Candle sticks, Kauri wood

This platter is 15″ in diameter and the rim is dyed with purple analine dye.  The rim was shaped, sanded and then dyed before the middle was chiseled.  The reason for doing the rim first is two fold.  1.  You need the bulk in the middle of the platter to keep the rim sturdy.  If it gets too thin without the bulk in the middle it will vibrate too much and then difficult to do your chisel work. 2.  You want a crisp edge between the purple and the bowl part.  When you apply your dye extend it onto the bowl part and then chisel it back.

Comments please.

Thanks

Tags: Dying of wood, Wood Platter

KMS is having a 4 day (October 15 to 18th) sale at their Coquitlam store.  I will be there from 10:30 to 4:30 each day doing turning demonstrations and answering questions.  Bring your questions etc.  Looking forward to seeing you.

Rich

Continuation of my experiment with Kirkland’s dishwater soap and equal parts of water.  I had a two year old 13″ Pecan salad bowl that I was dreading finishing as when pecan dries it is veryyyyyy hard.  I placed the bowl in the soap solution for two days, removed it and dried it for one day.  It finished up beautifully.  Very easy to chisel and it sanded out easily.  I have noticed some discoloration in the outer part of the wood but if you take a little more off the real wood shows underneath.  The first one I did I didn’t take off enough and the outside looked quite dark.

Thank you

PS -Would you kindly be a little more specific with your wants and questions.

So far the use of Costco, Kirkland;s dish soap - equal parts  water has stopped any cracking but has not stopped warping.

I will let you know how I make out with a few more pieces.

This turning was done wet.  After the outside was formed, I drilled hole in the inside and used an Andre Martel hook tool to  do the hollowing.

Tags: Drying bowls, End turning

Yesterday, I finished a natural edge bowl from a very nice Big Leaf Maple Burl and it had two, 2 ” long cracks, on opposite sides.  After sealing the cracks with CA glue, I drilled very small holes at 1/4″ intervals along both sides of the crack and stitched the crack with very fine copper wire.  The wire disguised the crack nicely.  You look at the wire and not the crack.

Pictures - before and after with stitching

Tags: Bowl cracking enhancements, Bowl texturing, Copper stitched Maple Burl Bowl, Natural Edge woodturning, Wooden Bowls

Saturday, March 30, at Camp Alexandra - in the village at Crescent Beach is the first showing of the year.  It is a combination artist / artisan show with lots of family activities and some stage acts.  Lots of fun and lots to see.  A nice walk on the beach before or after is really nice.  11:00 to 5:00 are my times.